The Annapurna Base Camp trek, often called the ABC trek or the Annapurna Sanctuary trek, is one of the most beautiful treks in the world. In about a week from Pokhara, it climbs from terraced rice fields and Gurung villages through bamboo and rhododendron forest into the narrow gorge of the Modi Khola, and finally emerges into the Annapurna Sanctuary, a vast glacial amphitheatre enclosed by Annapurna I (8,091 m), Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Gangapurna, Annapurna III and the sacred fishtail of Machhapuchhre (6,993 m).
It is shorter and lower than Everest Base Camp, needs no mountain flight, and suits fit beginners as well as experienced trekkers. Below: the itineraries, what each day is like, difficulty, costs, permits, the best time to go and the safety advice we give our own groups.
Quick answer: the Annapurna Base Camp trek takes 7–10 days from Pokhara (10–12 days from Kathmandu), reaches 4,130 m, and is graded moderate. A guided trek costs about US$700–1,100 including ACAP permit, guide, porter, lodges and meals. The best months are March–May and October–November. The main challenges are thousands of stone steps and, in winter and early spring, avalanche risk below Machhapuchhre Base Camp.
ABC trek at a glance
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Duration | 7–10 days from Pokhara |
| Highest point | Annapurna Base Camp, 4,130 m |
| Grade | Moderate |
| Start | Nayapul, Kimche, Siwai or Ghandruk (by jeep from Pokhara) |
| Key villages | Ghandruk, Chhomrong, Sinuwa, Bamboo, Deurali |
| Permit | ACAP and TIMS |
| Accommodation | Teahouse lodges |
| Best time | March–May, October–November |
Recommended itinerary from Pokhara
| Day | Route | Altitude | Walking |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Drive to Kimche or Siwai, trek to Ghandruk or Jhinu | 1,780–1,940 m | 3–5 hrs |
| 2 | Trek to Chhomrong | 2,170 m | 4–5 hrs |
| 3 | Trek to Bamboo or Dovan | 2,310–2,500 m | 5–6 hrs |
| 4 | Trek to Deurali | 3,230 m | 5 hrs |
| 5 | Trek to ABC via Machhapuchhre Base Camp | 4,130 m | 4–5 hrs |
| 6 | Sunrise at ABC, descend to Bamboo | 2,310 m | 6–7 hrs |
| 7 | Trek to Jhinu Danda (hot springs) | 1,780 m | 5–6 hrs |
| 8 | Trek out and drive to Pokhara | 820 m | 2–3 hrs |
Add a day or two for Poon Hill at the start (via Ghorepani and Tadapani), or return via Mardi Himal. The full itinerary is on our Annapurna Base Camp Trek page.
The trek, day by day
Into the Gurung heartland
The first day takes you into the heart of Gurung country. Ghandruk is one of the largest and most beautiful Gurung villages, with stone houses, slate roofs and a museum, while Jhinu Danda is famous for its natural hot springs by the river. From here, the trail climbs to Chhomrong, a village spread across a steep hillside facing Annapurna South and Machhapuchhre, the last permanent village before the Sanctuary.
The stone steps
Between Chhomrong and Sinuwa lies the section every ABC trekker remembers: a long flight of stone steps down to the Chhomrong Khola and an equally long climb back up the other side. It is tough on the legs, but it is also the gateway to the upper valley.
Bamboo, Dovan and Deurali
Beyond Sinuwa, the trail enters dense forest of bamboo, oak and rhododendron in the narrowing Modi Khola gorge. The lodges at Bamboo, Dovan and Himalaya are small clusters in the forest. Above them, the gorge narrows further and the forest thins as you reach Deurali, where the vegetation gives way to grass and rock and the walls of the gorge rise steeply on either side.
Into the Sanctuary
From Deurali, the trail enters the Sanctuary, passing Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC, 3,700 m), directly beneath the fishtail peak, and climbing gently over grassy moraine to Annapurna Base Camp. As you arrive, the mountains close in on every side: Annapurna I's vast south face, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli, Gangapurna and Machhapuchhre. At sunset and sunrise the peaks all around you turn orange, then pink.
The descent
The return follows the same trail down to Bamboo and Sinuwa, with the option of relaxing in the hot springs at Jhinu Danda before walking out to the road.
How difficult is the ABC trek?
The ABC trek is moderate. The altitude is manageable, with only one or two nights above 3,500 m, but the trail involves thousands of stone steps and many ascents and descents, which are tiring and hard on the knees. Daily walking is five to seven hours. Fit beginners manage it well, especially with trekking poles and a porter. See our guide to the best treks for beginners.
Avalanche risk
An important safety point: the section between Deurali and Machhapuchhre Base Camp passes beneath steep slopes where avalanches can occur, particularly from January to April after heavy snowfall. In January 2020, an avalanche in this area killed several trekkers and guides. Always follow the advice of your guide and local authorities, avoid the section after heavy snow, and walk it early in the day when snow is firmer. In autumn, the risk is much lower.
Cost of the ABC trek
| Item | Approximate cost (US$) |
|---|---|
| ACAP + TIMS | About 40 |
| Transport Pokhara–trailhead and back | 40–100 per vehicle |
| Guide (per day) | 30–40 |
| Porter (per day) | 22–30 |
| Lodges and meals (per day) | 25–40 |
| Full guided package from Pokhara | 700–1,100 per person |
Lodges in the upper valley are managed by local committees that set prices, which rise with altitude.
A night in the Annapurna Sanctuary
Spending a night at Annapurna Base Camp is the emotional heart of the trek. You arrive in the early afternoon, often as cloud swirls through the Sanctuary, and settle into one of the small lodges on the moraine. As the afternoon passes, the clouds often clear, revealing the immense south face of Annapurna I, a wall of ice and rock rising more than 3,000 m above you, where climbers such as Chris Bonington's 1970 expedition made mountaineering history. At sunset, the peaks turn gold, then pink, then silver as the stars come out. The night is cold and the air is thin, but few trekkers mind. At dawn, everyone gathers outside in down jackets to watch the first sunlight strike the summit of Annapurna and then Machhapuchhre, until the whole ring of peaks is glowing. It is one of the great mountain moments on Earth.
Machhapuchhre: the sacred fishtail
Throughout the trek, the dominant peak is Machhapuchhre, meaning "fish tail", named for its twin summits. It is sacred to Lord Shiva and has never been officially climbed; a British expedition in 1957 turned back just below the summit out of respect, and the mountain has been closed to climbing ever since. Its perfect pyramid shape, seen from Chhomrong and MBC, makes it one of the most photographed peaks in Nepal.
Lodges and food
Teahouses on the ABC trail are comfortable and well organised. In the lower villages, such as Ghandruk, Jhinu and Chhomrong, lodges have hot showers, Wi-Fi and some rooms with attached bathrooms. In the upper valley, from Bamboo to ABC, the number of lodges is limited by the local management committee, and rooms are simpler; in peak season, trekkers sometimes share rooms or sleep in dining rooms, so booking through a guide helps. A tradition in the Sanctuary asks that no meat be carried above Chhomrong, as the area is considered sacred, so meals are vegetarian: dal bhat, pasta, noodles, potatoes, eggs and pancakes. Read our guide to teahouse trekking.
Packing for ABC
Pack layers for warm days in the lower valleys and freezing nights at ABC: base layers, a fleece, a warm down jacket, a waterproof jacket, a warm hat and gloves, trekking trousers, broken-in boots, a sleeping bag rated to about −10°C, trekking poles for the steps, sunglasses and sunscreen. In spring and the monsoon, leech socks and a rain cover are useful. Our packing list goes into more detail.
Acclimatisation
Although ABC is lower than Everest Base Camp, it is still high enough for altitude sickness. The ascent from Deurali (3,230 m) to ABC (4,130 m) is the biggest altitude gain, and some trekkers feel headaches or poor sleep at ABC. Walk slowly, drink plenty of water, and consider spending the night at MBC (3,700 m) and walking up to ABC for sunrise if you are concerned. Tell your guide about any symptoms. Read our altitude guide.
ABC vs Everest Base Camp
ABC and EBC are often compared. ABC is shorter, cheaper, lower and reached by road, with more varied scenery, while EBC is higher, longer and famous for the Everest view and Sherpa culture. Many trekkers do ABC first and EBC on a later trip. Read our detailed ABC vs EBC comparison.
Common questions
Can I do ABC in five days? A very fast trek is possible by driving as far as roads allow and walking long days, but it leaves little time for acclimatisation and enjoyment. Is there mobile signal? In most villages, and Wi-Fi in many lodges, including at ABC. Are there ATMs? No, bring cash from Pokhara. Can children do the trek? Fit older children and teenagers can, with a slow pace. Is it crowded? In October and April the trail is busy, and upper lodges fill up.
Best time
- March–May: rhododendrons bloom in the forest; warm days in the Sanctuary.
- October–November: clear skies, the most stable weather and the busiest season.
- December–February: cold, with snow in the Sanctuary and avalanche risk below MBC.
- June–September: monsoon rain, leeches and cloud; quiet trails.
Gurung culture on the ABC trail
The lower part of the ABC trek passes through the homeland of the Gurung people, one of Nepal's most well-known ethnic groups, famous around the world as Gurkha soldiers in the British and Indian armies. Villages such as Ghandruk, Landruk, Chhomrong and Jhinu are mostly Gurung, with stone houses, slate roofs, terraced fields of rice, millet and maize, and a strong sense of community. Many families have members who served abroad, and their pensions and remittances have helped build lodges and schools. In Ghandruk, visit the Gurung Museum to see traditional clothing, tools and household items, and try on Gurung dress for a photo. In the evenings, some villages perform traditional songs and dances, and lodges serve Gurung dishes alongside the usual menu. Respect local customs, dress modestly and ask before photographing people.
The Modi Khola gorge
Between Chhomrong and Deurali, the trail follows the Modi Khola, a glacial river that drains the Annapurna Sanctuary, through a deep, narrow gorge. The gorge is the only entrance to the Sanctuary, which is otherwise surrounded by high mountains, giving it the feeling of a hidden world. The forest here is thick and damp, with bamboo groves, rhododendrons, oaks and ferns, and waterfalls come down the cliffs. Langur monkeys are common, and birds such as the Himalayan monal, Nepal's national bird, may be seen. As you climb, the gorge narrows and the walls rise higher, until suddenly the valley opens into the Sanctuary. It's a sudden change, and people stop in their tracks.
Hot springs at Jhinu Danda
A highlight of the return journey is a soak in the natural hot springs at Jhinu Danda, about 20 minutes' walk below the village by the Modi Khola. Several pools of warm water, fed by natural springs, sit beside the rushing river, surrounded by forest. After days of walking, stone steps and cold nights, relaxing in the warm water is pure bliss for tired muscles. There is a small fee, and changing rooms are basic. Bring swimwear and a quick-dry towel, and be respectful of other bathers.
Photography on the ABC trek
You'll take photos all the way: terraced fields and village life in Ghandruk and Chhomrong, the bamboo forest and waterfalls of the gorge, and the full circle of peaks in the Sanctuary. Sunrise and sunset at ABC are the highlights, when the mountains glow in golden and pink light. Machhapuchhre is especially photogenic from Chhomrong, Sinuwa and MBC. Bring a wide-angle lens for the Sanctuary panorama and a telephoto for details of the peaks. Keep your batteries warm at night, and bring a lens cloth for condensation.
Guides and porters on the ABC trail
Since 2023, foreign trekkers in the Annapurna Conservation Area must walk with a licensed guide. On the ABC trail, a guide books lodges in the upper valley, where space is limited, advises on avalanche conditions in winter and spring, manages your pace and acclimatisation, and introduces you to Gurung culture. A porter makes the stone steps much more enjoyable by carrying your main bag. Many guides and porters on this route are from the villages you pass through. Have a look at our guide to hiring a guide and porter.
Combining ABC with other treks
ABC combines naturally with other Annapurna treks. The classic combination is Poon Hill and ABC, starting with the Poon Hill sunrise and joining the ABC trail at Tadapani and Chhomrong, which adds about two days. You can also combine ABC with Mardi Himal, returning via Landruk and Siding, or with Khopra Danda for a quieter extension. For a longer adventure, some trekkers combine ABC with the Annapurna Circuit. For the details, read our Poon Hill guide.
Getting to the trailhead from Pokhara
Most ABC treks start with a drive from Pokhara along the Baglung Highway to Nayapul, then up rough roads to trailheads such as Kimche, Siwai or Ghandruk, depending on your itinerary. Jeeps now reach higher than ever, shortening the first day of walking. The drive takes one to three hours and passes terraced hills and the Modi Khola valley. On the return, jeeps collect trekkers from Jhinu, Siwai or Nayapul. Your trekking company will arrange private transport, which is more comfortable than local buses.
Weather and what to expect in the Sanctuary
The Sanctuary has its own microclimate. Mornings are usually clear, with the peaks sharp against blue skies, but cloud often rises from the gorge in the afternoon, sometimes bringing light snow or rain even in the main seasons. Nights at ABC are cold, often well below freezing from November to March. Wind can be strong. Dress in layers, keep a warm jacket and hat handy, and plan to be at ABC at sunrise for the clearest views. In spring, the snow line may be lower, and the trail between MBC and ABC can be snowy.
Tips from our guides
- Use trekking poles for the stone steps, especially on descents.
- Book lodges in the upper valley ahead in October and April.
- Walk the Deurali–MBC section early in the day, especially in spring.
- Consider sleeping at MBC and walking to ABC for sunrise if you are sensitive to altitude.
- Carry cash; there are no ATMs on the trail.
- Save energy for the hot springs at Jhinu on the way down.
Responsible trekking in the Sanctuary
The Annapurna Sanctuary is a sacred place for local people and a fragile environment. Respect the tradition of not carrying meat above Chhomrong, refill water bottles at safe drinking water stations rather than buying plastic, carry out batteries and non-biodegradable waste, and stay on trails to protect the vegetation. Support local lodges and guides, and treat porters fairly.
A brief history of the Sanctuary
The Annapurna Sanctuary was long considered sacred by the Gurung people, home to deities and closed to women, low castes and anyone carrying meat or eggs. The first Westerners to enter it were members of the British reconnaissance expedition led by Jimmy Roberts in 1956, who explored the approach to Machhapuchhre. In 1970, a British expedition led by Chris Bonington made the first ascent of Annapurna's formidable south face, one of the landmark climbs in Himalayan history, from a base camp in the Sanctuary. Annapurna I itself was the first 8,000 m peak ever climbed, by a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog in 1950, though from the north side. Today, the Sanctuary welcomes thousands of trekkers each year, but it retains its sense of a sacred, hidden place.
Money, Wi-Fi and practicalities
There are no ATMs on the ABC trail, so bring enough Nepali rupees from Pokhara. Lodges charge for hot showers, charging and Wi-Fi, which is available in most villages, including at ABC. Mobile signal is good in lower villages and patchy in the gorge. Safe drinking water stations are available in several villages. Your ACAP permit is checked at points such as Birethanti and Chhomrong, so keep it accessible.
ABC for families and older trekkers
ABC suits active families with teenagers and fit older trekkers, thanks to its moderate altitude, road access and comfortable lower lodges. Choose a slower itinerary with shorter days, an extra night in Chhomrong or Bamboo, and a porter to carry luggage. Consider sleeping at MBC rather than ABC if anyone is sensitive to altitude. We cover this in our family guide.
Booking tips
For October and April, book several weeks in advance so your guide can reserve rooms in the upper valley. Private treks can start on any day. Allow a night in Pokhara before and after the trek, and keep a spare day if you are flying between Kathmandu and Pokhara. Our team can combine ABC with Poon Hill, Mardi Himal, a Chitwan safari or Kathmandu sightseeing in a single itinerary.
Training for the ABC trek
Train for eight to ten weeks with long hill walks carrying a daypack, stair climbing and leg strength exercises such as squats and lunges, which prepare your knees for the long descents. Include at least two weekends with back-to-back hikes. Break in your boots and practise with trekking poles. The fitter you are, the more you will enjoy the stone steps and the Sanctuary. We cover this in our training guide.
What trekkers say about ABC
Trekkers often describe arriving at Annapurna Base Camp as one of the most emotional moments of their travels. Many say they did not expect the Sanctuary to feel so enclosed and intimate, with peaks on every side, and that sunrise there was the most beautiful they have ever seen. Others remember the kindness of lodge families in Chhomrong, the monkeys in the bamboo forest and the bliss of the Jhinu hot springs on the way down.
Why ABC is a great first big trek
The Annapurna Base Camp trek packs a lot into a week: villages, forests, a deep gorge and a bowl of 7,000 and 8,000 m peaks at the end. It's easy to organise, it doesn't cost much, and people love it. For many trekkers, it is the perfect first Himalayan trek, and for others, a highlight they return to again and again. Contact us to plan your ABC trek.