Most people who dream of trekking in the Everest region think of one destination: Everest Base Camp. But there is another trek in the Khumbu that many experienced guides quietly consider even more beautiful: the trek to the Gokyo Lakes, a chain of turquoise glacial lakes beside the Ngozumpa Glacier, the longest glacier in the Himalaya, crowned by the viewpoint of Gokyo Ri (5,357 m).
Both treks start in Lukla, pass through Namche Bazaar and give you close views of Everest. So which should you choose? We've guided both for many seasons, so here is how they compare, and how strong trekkers can link the two over the Cho La pass.
Quick answer: choose Everest Base Camp if standing at the foot of Everest and the famous Kala Patthar view are your dream, and you do not mind busy trails. Choose Gokyo Lakes if you prefer quieter trails, turquoise lakes and what many consider the finest Everest panorama in the Khumbu from Gokyo Ri. Both take about 12–13 days from Kathmandu. Fit, experienced trekkers can combine them in 15–17 days via the Cho La (5,420 m).
Side-by-side comparison
| Gokyo Lakes | Everest Base Camp | |
|---|---|---|
| Duration from Kathmandu | 12–13 days | 12–14 days |
| Highest sleeping altitude | Gokyo, 4,790 m | Gorak Shep, 5,164 m |
| Highest point | Gokyo Ri, 5,357 m | Kala Patthar, 5,545 m |
| Signature view | Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu above the lakes and glacier | Everest's south-west face from Kala Patthar; Khumbu Icefall at base camp |
| Difficulty | Moderate to challenging | Moderate to challenging |
| Crowds | Much quieter | Busy in peak season |
| Lodges | Fewer, simpler above Dole | Many, with more choice |
| Culture | Sherpa villages, yak pastures | Sherpa villages, Tengboche Monastery, climbing memorials |
| Cost | Similar, slightly lower | Similar |
The Everest Base Camp trek in brief
From Namche Bazaar, the Everest Base Camp trail follows the main Khumbu valley past Tengboche Monastery, the spiritual heart of the Sherpa people, and the villages of Pangboche and Dingboche, beneath the soaring pyramid of Ama Dablam. Above Dingboche, the trail climbs to Thukla, where memorial cairns honour climbers who died on Everest, and follows the Khumbu Glacier to Lobuche and Gorak Shep. From there, you walk along the moraine to Everest Base Camp (5,364 m) beside the Khumbu Icefall, and climb Kala Patthar (5,545 m) for the classic view of Everest's summit. It is a journey into the heart of mountaineering history. Read our full Everest Base Camp guide.
The Gokyo Lakes trek in brief
From Namche, the Gokyo trail branches north-west towards the village of Mong La, where Ama Dablam stands right in front of you, then drops to the Dudh Koshi and climbs through rhododendron and juniper to Dole, Machhermo and the lakes. The Gokyo Lakes are a series of six main lakes, protected as a Ramsar wetland of international importance, whose water changes from turquoise to deep blue depending on the light. The village of Gokyo sits beside the third and largest lake, Dudh Pokhari, with the vast rubble-covered Ngozumpa Glacier alongside. At dawn, you climb Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) for a 360-degree panorama including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu, four of the world's six highest mountains. Have a look at our Gokyo Lakes Trek.
Typical itineraries compared
| Day | Gokyo Lakes | Everest Base Camp |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arrive Kathmandu | Arrive Kathmandu |
| 2 | Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding | Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding |
| 3 | Namche Bazaar | Namche Bazaar |
| 4 | Acclimatisation in Namche | Acclimatisation in Namche |
| 5 | Dole (4,040 m) | Tengboche (3,860 m) |
| 6 | Machhermo (4,470 m) | Dingboche (4,410 m) |
| 7 | Gokyo (4,790 m) | Acclimatisation in Dingboche |
| 8 | Gokyo Ri, fifth lake | Lobuche (4,940 m) |
| 9 | Descend to Dole | EBC, Gorak Shep (5,164 m) |
| 10 | Namche Bazaar | Kala Patthar, Pheriche |
| 11 | Lukla | Namche Bazaar |
| 12 | Fly to Kathmandu | Lukla |
| 13 | Spare day / departure | Fly to Kathmandu |
Views: Gokyo Ri vs Kala Patthar
This is the question most trekkers ask, and opinions are strongly divided. Kala Patthar puts you closer to Everest, with the summit pyramid rising directly above the Khumbu Glacier and Nuptse's great wall to the side. It's close, steep and exactly what you imagined. Gokyo Ri is further from Everest, but its panorama is wider: Cho Oyu towers to the north, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu line up to the east, and directly below you, the turquoise lakes and the grey river of ice of the Ngozumpa Glacier stretch away. Many photographers consider Gokyo Ri the best viewpoint in the Khumbu, and many of our guides agree.
A useful way to think about it: Kala Patthar is the best view of Everest; Gokyo Ri is the best view across the Everest region.
Difficulty and altitude
Both treks are moderate to challenging, with similar daily walking times. EBC goes higher, with nights at Lobuche (4,940 m) and Gorak Shep (5,164 m), which are the hardest nights on either trek. Gokyo's highest night is at 4,790 m, but the ascent from Namche to Gokyo is quite rapid in some itineraries, so an extra night at Dole or Machhermo is wise. The climb up Gokyo Ri is steep, taking two to three hours from the village; Kala Patthar is similar. Overall, many trekkers find Gokyo slightly easier because the highest nights are lower. Read our guide to altitude sickness.
Crowds and atmosphere
This is where Gokyo shines. The EBC trail between Namche and Gorak Shep is one of the busiest trekking routes in the world in October, November and April, with long lines of trekkers, porters and yaks, and full lodges at Lobuche and Gorak Shep. The Gokyo valley receives a fraction of the traffic. You will still meet other trekkers, but lodges are rarely full, trails are peaceful, and you often have long stretches alone with the mountains. If you value solitude, Gokyo is the better choice.
Lodges and comfort
The EBC trail has more lodges and more choice, including luxury lodges in the lower valley. Above Dingboche, lodges are basic on both routes. Gokyo has several good lodges beside the lake, many with sunny dining rooms looking over the water, and Machhermo and Dole have comfortable options. Both routes share Namche Bazaar, with its bakeries, cafés and shops.
Culture and history
EBC has the edge for culture and history: Tengboche Monastery, the villages of Pangboche and Dingboche, the Thukla memorials and the base camp itself, full of expedition history in spring. Gokyo offers quieter Sherpa settlements and yak herders' summer villages, which give a sense of traditional Khumbu life, and at Machhermo, the Himalayan Rescue Association runs a clinic in season.
Combining both: Gokyo and EBC via the Cho La
For strong trekkers with 15–17 days, the ultimate Khumbu experience is to combine both treks by crossing the Cho La (5,420 m), a high pass between the Gokyo valley and the EBC trail. The usual route goes Namche – Gokyo – Thagnak – Cho La – Dzongla – Lobuche – EBC – Kala Patthar – down to Lukla. The Cho La crossing involves a steep climb, a short section on a glacier (sometimes icy and requiring microspikes) and a steep descent. It is not technical in good conditions, but it demands good fitness and acclimatisation and should only be attempted with a guide. Add the Renjo La and Kongma La and you have the Everest Three Passes Trek.
Cost
The two treks cost almost the same. Both require the Sagarmatha National Park permit, the Khumbu local fee and Lukla flights. Gokyo can be slightly cheaper because it is often a day shorter and food prices at Gorak Shep are among the highest on either route. A guided trek typically costs US$1,300–1,800 for either; the Gokyo–EBC combination costs around US$1,700–2,300. Take a look at our guide to the cost of trekking in Nepal.
Best time for each
Both treks are best in October–November and March–May. Gokyo's lakes are especially beautiful in autumn, when the water is at its most vivid, and in winter, when they freeze. The Cho La can be snowy and icy from December to March and after late-autumn storms. EBC in spring coincides with the Everest climbing season, when base camp is full of expedition tents.
Who should choose Gokyo?
- You prefer quiet trails and fewer crowds.
- You love lakes, glaciers and wide panoramas.
- You want to see Everest without the busiest route.
- You are a photographer.
- You have already done EBC and want to return to the Khumbu.
Who should choose Everest Base Camp?
- Standing at Everest Base Camp is a lifelong dream.
- You are interested in mountaineering history and Sherpa culture.
- You want to visit Tengboche Monastery.
- You enjoy the social atmosphere of a busy trail.
- You plan to climb Island Peak or Lobuche East.
What our guides say
We asked our Everest guides which trek they would choose if they could only do one. The answers were split almost exactly in half. One guide, who grew up in Khumjung, said: "Base camp is where Everest's story is told. Every Sherpa family has someone who has worked there. For first-timers, it has to be EBC." Another guide, who has led more than fifty treks in the region, disagreed: "Gokyo is where the mountains are most beautiful. When the lakes are turquoise and the sun rises over Everest from Gokyo Ri, nothing on the EBC trail compares." A third summed up the diplomatic view: "Do EBC the first time, Gokyo the second, and the Three Passes the third."
A day on Gokyo Ri
To give you a sense of Gokyo's highlight: you wake around 4:30 a.m. in your lodge beside the lake, pull on every layer you own and set off by head torch across the frozen shore. The trail climbs steeply up the grassy, rocky slope of Gokyo Ri, zigzagging back and forth. It is cold and breathless work, and you stop often. As the sky lightens, the lakes below turn from black to deep blue, and the summit of Everest catches the first pink light far to the east. By the time you reach the prayer flags at the top, around two and a half hours later, the sun has risen over the peaks, and you can see Cho Oyu glowing to the north, the Ngozumpa Glacier curving below, and Everest, Lhotse and Makalu lined up on the horizon. Most trekkers stay for an hour, drinking tea from a thermos and taking photographs, before descending for a well-earned breakfast.
A day at Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar
By comparison, the EBC highlight unfolds over two days. After a long, rocky walk from Lobuche to Gorak Shep, you drop your bags, have lunch and continue along the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier to Everest Base Camp. The trail winds between ice pinnacles and boulders, and after two to three hours you reach the rock marked "Everest Base Camp", surrounded by prayer flags, with the jumble of the Khumbu Icefall above. You return to Gorak Shep for a cold night. The next morning, before dawn, you climb Kala Patthar, a steep brown hill above the lodges, and watch the sun rise behind Everest's summit, just a few kilometres away. The view is so close and so famous that many trekkers find themselves unexpectedly emotional.
The Ngozumpa Glacier and the lakes up close
The Gokyo valley is shaped by the Ngozumpa Glacier, which flows south from Cho Oyu for about 36 km, making it the longest glacier in the Himalaya. Unlike the gleaming white glaciers of photographs, most of its surface is covered in grey rock and rubble, with occasional ice cliffs and meltwater pools. From Gokyo, you can walk onto the lateral moraine and look down on this vast, slowly moving river of ice and stone, listening to the crack of ice and the rumble of falling rocks. The glacier has thinned significantly in recent decades as temperatures have risen, and scientists monitor its meltwater lakes closely.
The Gokyo Lakes lie in a line along the western side of the glacier. The first lake, Longponga, and the second, Taboche Tsho, appear as you approach Gokyo. The third, Dudh Pokhari or Gokyo Lake, is the largest, and the village sits on its eastern shore. Beyond Gokyo, a gentle walk leads to the fourth lake, Thonak Tsho, and on to the fifth, Ngozumpa Tsho, which looks straight at Everest and Cho Oyu's huge south face. The sixth lake, Gyazumpa Tsho, lies further north, near Cho Oyu base camp. The lakes are sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, and during the Janai Purnima festival in August, pilgrims come to bathe in them.
Acclimatising on the Gokyo route
The Gokyo route gains altitude quickly after Namche, climbing from 3,440 m to 4,790 m in three days. That is why a rest day in Namche is essential, and many good itineraries include an extra night at Dole or Machhermo. At Machhermo, the Himalayan Rescue Association often runs a clinic in the trekking season, with daily talks on altitude sickness. Walk slowly, drink plenty of water and tell your guide about any headache or nausea. If you plan to cross the Cho La, the time you spend at Gokyo helps you acclimatise before the pass.
Which is better for photography?
For photographers, Gokyo is hard to beat. Turquoise water, glaciers and a row of 8,000 m peaks: it is hard to take a bad photo, especially at sunrise from Gokyo Ri and late in the afternoon, when the light goes gold on the lakes. The fifth lake gives you a quieter, closer view of Everest and fewer people. EBC has other strengths: the tumbled ice towers of the Khumbu Icefall, prayer flags against Everest at Kala Patthar, yak trains on the moraine and Tengboche Monastery with Ama Dablam behind it. Many photographers do the full combination route precisely to capture both.
Weather and seasons on the two routes
Both routes share the same seasonal pattern, but there are small differences. Gokyo, being slightly west, sometimes gets afternoon cloud rolling up from the valley earlier than the upper Khumbu. In winter the lakes freeze solid and everything turns white, although temperatures fall well below −15°C at night and some lodges close. In spring, the rhododendrons between Namche and Dole bloom beautifully, and in autumn, the lakes are at their most vivid colour. On the EBC route, spring brings expedition tents to base camp and a lively atmosphere, while autumn offers the clearest views of Everest from Kala Patthar. Read our guide to the best time to trek in Nepal for more.
Common questions about choosing
I only have ten days. Which should I do? Ten days is tight for either route from Kathmandu. Gokyo is slightly easier to fit in, but we recommend at least 12 days for either, to allow acclimatisation and a spare day for Lukla flights. Can I see Everest Base Camp from Gokyo? No, but you see Everest itself clearly from Gokyo Ri and the fifth lake. Is the Cho La dangerous? In good conditions with a guide and proper equipment, the Cho La is safe for fit, acclimatised trekkers; in snow or ice, it can be hazardous and your guide may recommend waiting or taking the longer route around via Phortse. Which trek has better lodges? EBC has more choice; Gokyo's lodges by the lake are excellent but fewer in number.
Packing differences between the two treks
The kit for both treks is almost identical: a warm sleeping bag rated to −15°C, a down jacket, layers, a waterproof shell, good boots, sunglasses and sunscreen. EBC's nights at Lobuche and Gorak Shep are slightly colder than Gokyo's, so do not skimp on warmth. If you plan to cross the Cho La, add microspikes and gaiters for the glacier and icy sections, and consider a helmet in seasons when rockfall is a concern on the descent to Dzongla. Bring a good pair of sunglasses for both routes: the glare from the lakes, snowfields and glaciers is intense. Our packing list covers everything in detail.
How to decide if you are still unsure
If you are still torn, ask yourself three questions. First, what matters more to you: the name and story of Everest Base Camp, or the beauty and peace of the lakes? Second, how do you feel about crowds? If busy trails and full lodges would spoil your enjoyment, choose Gokyo. Third, how much time and fitness do you have? If you have 16 days or more and good fitness, you do not have to choose: the combination via the Cho La gives you both. And if this is your first time in the Himalaya and you might never return, many people feel they must see Everest Base Camp. There is no wrong answer; both are among the finest treks on Earth.
Getting there: the Lukla flight
Both treks begin with the famous flight to Lukla, the gateway to the Khumbu. In peak seasons, most flights leave from Ramechhap (Manthali) airport, about four to five hours' drive from Kathmandu, which means a very early start. The flight itself takes about 20 minutes from Ramechhap or 35 minutes from Kathmandu and lands on a short, steeply sloping runway. Flights depend on clear weather and are often delayed, so always keep at least one spare day at the end of your trek. Our Lukla flight guide explains everything you need to know.
Guides and safety on both routes
A licensed guide makes both treks safer, and you'll understand much more of what you're seeing. On the EBC trail, guides book lodges in busy seasons and know which rooms are warmest; on the Gokyo route, they know the safest way onto the glacier and across the Cho La. In both regions, guides monitor your health at altitude, carry first-aid kits and coordinate helicopter evacuation if needed. Make sure your insurance covers trekking to 5,600 m and helicopter rescue before you go.
Budget tips for either trek
To keep costs down on either route, travel with a partner or small group to share guide and porter costs, eat dal bhat for its free refills, carry a water filter or purification tablets instead of buying bottled water, and bring snacks from Kathmandu, where they cost a fraction of the price in Gokyo or Gorak Shep.
Gokyo or EBC: our pick
There is no wrong choice. Everest Base Camp is the famous one, and for many people it's the reason to come to Nepal. Gokyo Lakes is the one our guides pick for themselves: quieter, arguably prettier, and Gokyo Ri may be the best viewpoint in the Khumbu. If you are fit and have the time, combine them via the Cho La and experience the best of both. Whatever you choose, our team will help you plan an itinerary with proper acclimatisation and spare days, or explore our Everest region treks.