At 6,476 m, Mera Peak is the highest permitted trekking peak in Nepal. It rises above the remote Hinku and Hongu valleys south of Everest, and its summit offers what many consider the finest mountain panorama in the Himalaya: five of the world's fourteen 8,000 m peaks, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Kanchenjunga, lined up along the horizon.
Despite its height, Mera Peak is technically straightforward, with a long glacier walk and a short steep section near the summit. That makes it an ideal first 6,000 m peak for fit trekkers who want altitude and views without difficult climbing. Below: the routes, summit day, training, gear, permits and costs.
Quick answer: a Mera Peak expedition takes about 16–19 days from Kathmandu. The route flies to Lukla, crosses the Zatrwa La (about 4,600 m) or follows the longer lower Hinku route, reaches Khare (about 5,000 m), then climbs via the Mera La to High Camp (about 5,800 m) and the summit (6,476 m). It is graded PD (technically straightforward but very high), costs about US$2,200–3,200, and is best in April–May and October–November.
Mera Peak at a glance
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Altitude | 6,476 m (central summit) |
| Region | Hinku and Hongu valleys, Makalu-Barun area, south of Everest |
| Grade | PD (glacier walk with a short steep section) |
| Key points | Lukla, Zatrwa La, Kothe, Thangnak, Khare, Mera La, High Camp |
| Summit day | 8–10 hours from High Camp |
| Permits | NMA peak permit, national park and local fees |
| Typical trip | 16–19 days from Kathmandu |
| Best time | April–May, October–November |
Routes to Mera
Via the Zatrwa La
The most common route flies to Lukla and heads east over the Zatrwa La (about 4,600 m) into the Hinku valley, reaching Kothe, Thangnak and Khare. It is the quickest approach but gains altitude very fast in the first days, so it must be combined with careful acclimatisation stops at Chutanga and in the Hinku valley.
Via the lower Hinku valley
A longer route heads south from Lukla through Paiya, Pangom and Ramailo Danda into the lower Hinku valley, through dense forest and remote villages. It adds several days but offers far better acclimatisation, fewer people and beautiful scenery. It is our preferred route for climbers without recent altitude experience.
Sample itinerary (Zatrwa La route with acclimatisation)
| Days | Plan |
|---|---|
| 1–2 | Arrive Kathmandu; gear check and permits |
| 3 | Fly to Lukla, trek to Chutanga |
| 4 | Acclimatisation at Chutanga |
| 5 | Cross Zatrwa La to Thuli Kharka |
| 6–7 | Descend to Kothe |
| 8 | Trek to Thangnak |
| 9 | Trek to Khare |
| 10 | Acclimatisation and training at Khare |
| 11 | Climb to Mera La / High Camp |
| 12 | Summit day, descend to Khare |
| 13 | Reserve day |
| 14–16 | Return to Lukla via Kothe and Zatrwa La |
| 17 | Fly to Kathmandu |
Have a look at our Mera Peak Climbing trip.
Summit day on Mera Peak
Summit day begins at High Camp, a small cluster of tents on a rocky outcrop at about 5,800 m, looking across to Everest, Makalu and Kanchenjunga. You wake around 1 or 2 a.m., force down a little breakfast and hot tea, put on crampons and harness, and rope up with your climbing Sherpa and team. In the dark, the route climbs the broad Mera Glacier in long zigzags, one slow step after another. The cold is intense, often −20°C or lower with wind chill, and hands and feet need constant attention.
As dawn breaks, the view begins to unfold: Makalu glows red to the east, then Everest and Lhotse appear to the north, and Cho Oyu and Kanchenjunga emerge on the horizon. The gradient remains gentle for most of the way, but the altitude makes every step hard. After four to six hours, you reach the base of the summit dome, where a short, steep slope is climbed with an ascender on a fixed rope. Then you step onto the summit, with the panorama of five 8,000 m peaks spread out around you. After photos, you descend the dome and walk back down the glacier, past High Camp, to Khare, making a long day of 10–12 hours in total.
The Hinku valley
The approach to Mera Peak through the Hinku valley is one of the highlights of the trip. This remote valley, part of the Makalu Barun National Park, has no permanent villages in its upper reaches, only seasonal herding settlements and teahouses built for trekkers and climbers. The trail passes through thick forests of rhododendron, fir and bamboo, where red pandas and Himalayan black bears live, before coming out into high meadows below Kusum Kanguru and Mera itself. At Thangnak, the valley opens up beneath huge moraines and glaciers, and at Khare, the Mera Glacier comes into view. The sense of wilderness is strong, and there are far fewer trekkers than on the Everest Base Camp trail.
Acclimatisation
Acclimatisation is the single most important factor for success on Mera. The Zatrwa La route gains altitude quickly, from Lukla at 2,840 m to over 4,600 m in two days, which is why an acclimatisation night at Chutanga is essential. In the Hinku valley, spend nights at Kothe, Thangnak and Khare, and take a rest day at Khare with a hike above the village. Walk slowly, drink three to four litres of water a day and report symptoms of altitude sickness immediately. The lower Hinku route gives much better acclimatisation and is recommended for first-time high-altitude climbers. Our altitude guide goes into more detail.
Training for Mera Peak
Train for at least 12–16 weeks, with a focus on endurance and altitude tolerance. Long hikes of six to eight hours with a 10–12 kg pack, back-to-back hiking days, stair climbing, steep hill repeats and cardio sessions will build the stamina needed for a long summit day at high altitude. Leg and core strength exercises help with walking in crampons and carrying a pack on the glacier. If possible, take a short course in glacier travel and crampon technique, and gain experience at altitude beforehand, for example on a trek to Everest Base Camp. See our training guide.
Gear list
You will need insulated mountaineering boots (double boots or 6,000 m boots), crampons, a climbing harness, a helmet, an ice axe, an ascender and descender, carabiners and slings, an expedition down jacket, insulated mitts and liner gloves, a balaclava, glacier glasses, a head torch, and a sleeping bag rated to −20°C or colder. Much of this can be rented in Kathmandu or Lukla, but test boots carefully for fit. Warmth is especially important on Mera, where summit mornings are extremely cold.
Lodges, camps and food
Teahouses now operate along the Mera route as far as Khare, making it possible to trek to the base of the mountain in relative comfort. Lodges are simple, with twin rooms or dormitories, shared toilets and basic menus of dal bhat, noodles, potatoes and eggs. Above Khare, climbers use tents at the Mera La and High Camp, with meals prepared by the climbing team's cook. Food at high camp is simple but plentiful, with soups, noodles, porridge and hot drinks to keep energy up. Carry snacks for summit day.
Best season
Spring (April–May) is the most popular season, with longer days and slightly warmer summit mornings. Autumn (October–November) brings clear skies and the best views of the five 8,000 m peaks, but colder temperatures. Winter is very cold and windy, and the monsoon brings snow and cloud to the mountain.
Permits and costs
You need an NMA peak permit for Mera Peak (fees vary by season), plus the relevant national park and local fees and a garbage deposit. A guided expedition typically costs US$2,200–3,200, including Lukla flights, permits, climbing Sherpa, guide, porters, lodges, tents and meals on the climb, and group climbing equipment. See our trekking peaks guide.
Safety on Mera Peak
Although Mera is not technically difficult, it is a high, glaciated mountain with serious risks. Hidden crevasses on the Mera Glacier mean climbers must always be roped together with an experienced guide. Extreme cold, strong winds and whiteout conditions can make navigation difficult and increase the risk of frostbite and hypothermia. Altitude sickness, including HACE and HAPE, is a real danger if acclimatisation is rushed. Always climb with a licensed, experienced climbing guide, respect turnaround times, descend immediately if symptoms of serious altitude sickness appear, and make sure your insurance covers mountaineering to 6,500 m and helicopter rescue. More on this in our insurance guide.
Views from the summit
The summit view is the reason many climbers choose Mera. To the north, Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse rise above the Khumbu; to the north-west, Cho Oyu; to the east, Makalu's massive pyramid and, far beyond, Kanchenjunga; and all around, countless peaks including Chamlang, Baruntse, Ama Dablam and Kangtega. On a clear morning, it is one of the most extensive mountain panoramas on Earth.
Who should climb Mera Peak?
Mera Peak suits fit trekkers who want to experience high-altitude mountaineering without steep, technical climbing. It suits people who have trekked to Everest Base Camp or other high routes and want more, and climbers preparing for 7,000 m or 8,000 m peaks. It is not suitable for people who have not trained seriously or have no experience of altitude.
What climbers say
Climbers often describe the Mera summit panorama as the most beautiful view they have ever seen. Many say the long glacier walk at dawn, with the peaks turning pink one by one, was a deeply moving experience, and that the remoteness of the Hinku valley made the journey feel like a true expedition.
How difficult is Mera Peak?
Mera Peak is graded PD. The climb is mostly a long, steady walk up a glacier on crampons, roped together, with a short, steeper section (about 30–40 m, around 40–45°) below the summit, usually climbed with a fixed rope. The main challenge is the altitude: at nearly 6,500 m, the air holds less than half the oxygen at sea level, and the summit day is long and very cold. It is less technical than Island Peak or Lobuche East but physically harder because of the height. We cover this in our Island Peak vs Mera Peak guide.
The approach day by day
After flying into Lukla, the Zatrwa La route heads east rather than north, leaving behind the busy Everest Base Camp trail. The first day climbs steeply through rhododendron and pine forest to Chutanga, a clearing with a few lodges at about 3,500 m, where most itineraries spend two nights for acclimatisation. The next day crosses the Zatrwa La, a high pass decorated with prayer flags and cairns, with views of Numbur, Kongde and the peaks of the Hinku valley. The descent leads to Thuli Kharka, a high pasture with basic lodges.
From Thuli Kharka, the trail descends into the Hinku valley through dense forest, with glimpses of Mera Peak's north face, to Kothe, a small settlement beside the Hinku river. The following days climb gently up the valley past Gondishung, with its 200-year-old gompa built into a rock, to Thangnak, surrounded by moraines, and finally to Khare at about 5,000 m, where the Mera Glacier comes fully into view. Khare is the base for acclimatisation and training before the climb.
From Khare, the route climbs onto the glacier to the Mera La (about 5,400 m), a broad pass, and on to High Camp, perched on rocks at about 5,800 m. From High Camp, the sunset view over Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Kanchenjunga is one of the finest anywhere, and many climbers say it rivals the summit itself.
Training day at Khare
Most Mera expeditions include a training day at Khare, often on the glacier or a slope near the village. Your climbing guide teaches or refreshes essential skills: putting on and adjusting a harness, fitting crampons correctly, walking on snow and ice in crampons, using an ice axe for balance and self-arrest, travelling roped together on a glacier, and using an ascender and descender on a fixed rope. Even if you have some experience, the training is valuable at altitude, where everything feels harder. It also helps your guide assess your fitness and technique before summit day.
Mera Peak's three summits
Mera Peak has three main summits: Mera North (the highest, about 6,476 m), Mera Central and Mera South. Most trekking-peak climbers aim for the central summit, reached via the standard glacier route with a short steep section, while the true north summit requires more technical climbing along an exposed ridge. Your climbing guide will explain which summit is planned, depending on conditions and the team's ability. Either way, you'll see five 8,000 m peaks from the top.
Mera Peak compared with Island Peak
Mera and Island Peak are the two most popular trekking peaks in Nepal, and they suit different climbers. Island Peak is lower but more technical, with a steep headwall on fixed ropes and an exposed summit ridge, and it combines easily with Everest Base Camp. Mera Peak is higher but technically easier, with a long glacier walk and a short steep section, and it sits in the remote Hinku valley. If you are nervous about steep climbing, Mera is a better first choice; if you want more technical excitement and a combination with EBC, Island Peak may suit you better. More on this in our comparison guide.
Climbing Sherpas and guides
An experienced climbing Sherpa is essential on Mera. Your guide will choose the safest line on the glacier, fix ropes on the summit dome, manage turnaround times and monitor the team's health. Many Mera guides have summited the peak dozens of times and have also climbed Everest and other 8,000 m peaks. A ratio of no more than two climbers per guide on summit day is recommended. Tipping your climbing Sherpa, including a summit bonus, is customary.
Nutrition and hydration
At high altitude, appetite drops but energy needs rise. Eat carbohydrate-rich meals such as rice, pasta, potatoes and porridge in the days before the climb, and drink three to four litres of fluids daily. On summit day, carry an insulated bottle of warm water or tea and easy-to-eat snacks such as chocolate, nuts and energy gels, and eat a little every hour even if you are not hungry. Staying fuelled and hydrated is one of the keys to summit success.
Common mistakes on Mera Peak
The most common mistake is rushing the approach over the Zatrwa La, which leads to altitude sickness in the Hinku valley. Others arrive with rental boots that are too tight or not warm enough, leading to cold feet or frostbite on summit day. Some climbers underestimate the cold at High Camp and bring an inadequate sleeping bag. Others push on past turnaround times. Follow your guide's advice, acclimatise slowly, and invest in warm, well-fitting gear.
Environmental responsibility
The Hinku valley and Mera Peak lie within the Makalu Barun National Park and its buffer zone, a fragile and relatively pristine environment. Choose an operator that practises leave-no-trace principles, carries out all waste from high camps, uses proper toilet facilities, and respects the garbage deposit system. Avoid single-use plastics, carry out batteries and gas canisters, and support local lodges in the Hinku valley.
Booking tips
Book three to four months in advance for spring and autumn to secure Lukla flights, permits and experienced climbing guides. Choose an itinerary with proper acclimatisation and at least one reserve day. Check what is included: climbing permit, climbing guide, group equipment, high camp tents and meals, and whether personal gear rental is included. Keep a spare day at the end of your trip for Lukla flight delays.
A brief history
Mera Peak was first climbed on 20 May 1953 by Colonel Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing, during the same season as the first ascent of Everest. It was later opened as a trekking peak and is now one of the most climbed mountains in Nepal, because it's not technical and the summit view is huge. Its remote location, away from the main Everest trail, has helped it keep a sense of adventure and wilderness.
Insurance
Standard trekking insurance does not cover climbing. You need a mountaineering policy that covers climbing to at least 6,500 m, the use of ropes, crampons and ice axes, and helicopter evacuation from high altitude. See our insurance guide.
Weather and turnaround times
On Mera, weather can change quickly. Clear mornings often give way to cloud and wind by early afternoon, which is why summit attempts begin in the early hours. Strong winds on the upper glacier can make temperatures dangerously low, and whiteouts can make navigation difficult even on the broad glacier. Your climbing guide will set a turnaround time and may postpone the summit attempt to a reserve day if conditions are poor. Respecting these decisions is essential for safety.
Photography on Mera Peak
Photographers get the forests and moraines of the Hinku valley, the north face of Mera above Khare, sunset from High Camp and five 8,000 m peaks from the summit. Keep batteries warm inside your jacket, as the cold at high camp and on summit day drains them quickly. A phone or compact camera with a lanyard is easier to use with gloves on the summit.
Mera Peak for women climbers
Many women climb Mera Peak every season, and female climbing guides are increasingly available in Nepal. Women-only departures can be arranged on request. See our guide to trekking in Nepal as a woman.
After Mera Peak: what next?
For many climbers, Mera Peak is a stepping stone to bigger mountains. Having experienced 6,000 m altitude, glacier travel and cold summit days, the natural next steps include more technical trekking peaks such as Island Peak or Lobuche East, or 7,000 m expedition peaks such as Baruntse (reached from the Hongu valley near Mera) or Himlung Himal. Some go on to attempt 8,000 m peaks such as Manaslu or Cho Oyu. Each step requires more skills and experience, and Mera provides a strong foundation. We cover this in our trekking peaks guide.
One lesson our climbing guides repeat to every group: practise with your boots and crampons before the trip. Walk around your local park in them, get used to the weight, and make sure the crampons fit your boots properly. Many small problems on summit day, cold feet, straps coming loose, blisters, start with gear that was never tried on at home.
Is Mera Peak your first summit?
Mera Peak offers the rare combination of a very high summit, relatively straightforward climbing and one of the greatest views in the Himalaya. With careful acclimatisation, good training and an experienced team, it's well within reach. Contact us to plan your Mera Peak expedition.