North of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, where the Himalaya gives way to the Tibetan Plateau, lies a land of wind-sculpted cliffs, red and ochre canyons, cave dwellings and whitewashed villages. This is Upper Mustang, the former Kingdom of Lo, often called the Forbidden Kingdom because it was closed to outsiders until 1992. At its heart stands Lo Manthang, a 15th-century walled city with monasteries containing some of the finest Buddhist wall paintings in the world.
The Upper Mustang trek is unlike any other in Nepal. It is not about high passes or close views of 8,000 m peaks, but about landscape and culture: a journey into a high desert where Tibetan Buddhist traditions have survived largely intact for centuries. Because it lies in a rain shadow, it is also one of the few treks that is excellent during the monsoon.
Quick answer: the Upper Mustang trek takes 12–14 days from Kathmandu (about 9–10 days walking from Jomsom), reaches Lo Manthang (3,840 m) with passes of about 4,000–4,300 m, and requires a US$500 restricted area permit for 10 days, a licensed guide and at least two trekkers. It is best from April to November, including the monsoon. A guided trek costs about US$2,000–2,800.
Upper Mustang at a glance
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Duration | 12–14 days from Kathmandu |
| Start and finish | Jomsom (flight from Pokhara) and Kagbeni |
| Highlight | Lo Manthang, 3,840 m |
| Highest passes | About 4,000–4,300 m |
| Grade | Moderate |
| Permits | Upper Mustang RAP (US$500 / 10 days) and ACAP |
| Rules | Minimum 2 trekkers, licensed guide, registered agency |
| Accommodation | Teahouse lodges and guesthouses |
| Best time | April–November |
A short history of the Kingdom of Lo
The Kingdom of Lo was founded in the 14th century by Ame Pal, a warrior king who built Lo Manthang as his capital. Positioned on the salt trade route between Tibet and India, Lo grew rich and powerful, and its rulers commissioned magnificent monasteries decorated by Tibetan and Newari artists. Lo later became a vassal of the Kingdom of Nepal but kept its own king, the Raja of Mustang, until Nepal abolished its monarchy in 2008. The last king, Jigme Palbar Bista, died in 2016, and the royal palace in Lo Manthang still stands.
Isolated by geography and closed to foreigners until 1992, Upper Mustang preserved a way of life that has disappeared elsewhere in Tibet. Its monasteries, cave complexes and villages are a living museum of Tibetan Buddhist culture.
Recommended 13-day itinerary
| Day | Route | Altitude |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arrive in Kathmandu; permit paperwork | 1,400 m |
| 2 | Fly or drive to Pokhara | 820 m |
| 3 | Fly to Jomsom, trek to Kagbeni | 2,810 m |
| 4 | Trek to Chele | 3,050 m |
| 5 | Trek to Syangboche via Samar | 3,475 m |
| 6 | Trek to Ghami | 3,520 m |
| 7 | Trek to Tsarang | 3,560 m |
| 8 | Trek to Lo Manthang | 3,840 m |
| 9 | Explore Lo Manthang, Chhoser caves and Garphu | 3,840 m |
| 10 | Trek to Drakmar via Ghar Gompa | 3,820 m |
| 11 | Trek to Ghiling or Syangboche | 3,570 m |
| 12 | Trek to Chhuksang and drive to Jomsom | 2,720 m |
| 13 | Fly to Pokhara | 820 m |
Have a look at our Upper Mustang Trek, or the faster Upper Mustang Jeep Tour if you prefer to travel by road.
Highlights of Upper Mustang
Lo Manthang
The walled city of Lo Manthang is the crowning moment of the trek. Inside the earthen walls, narrow lanes lead between whitewashed houses, prayer wheels and courtyards, and the four-storey royal palace rises in the centre. The monasteries of Thubchen (15th century) and Jampa (Champa) Lhakhang are covered in fine old murals, restored over many years by international and local conservators. Chode Gompa houses a monastic school. Spend at least a full day here.
Sky caves
Upper Mustang's cliffs are honeycombed with an estimated 10,000 man-made caves, some carved more than 2,000 years ago. They were used as dwellings, meditation retreats, storage and burial sites. Some contain Buddhist paintings and manuscripts. Near Lo Manthang, the Chhoser caves, including the multi-storey Jhong Cave, can be visited, and the monastery of Garphu and the cliffs of Nyiphu are nearby.
Ghar Gompa
Said to be the oldest monastery in Mustang, Ghar Gompa (Lo Gekar) is associated with Guru Rinpoche, who is believed to have built it in the 8th century. Its interior is full of carved and painted stones and paintings.
Drakmar's red cliffs
The village of Drakmar sits beneath towering red cliffs, which legend says are coloured by the blood of a demon slain by Guru Rinpoche. It is one of the most photogenic places in Mustang.
The longest mani wall
Between Ghami and Tsarang stands one of the longest mani walls in Nepal, stretching for hundreds of metres, its stones carved with Buddhist mantras.
The Tiji festival
Each year, usually in May, Lo Manthang hosts the three-day Tiji festival, when monks perform masked dances in the palace square, re-enacting the story of Dorje Jono, who defeated a demon to save the kingdom from drought. If your dates line up, it's well worth planning around. Book well ahead if you want to attend, as lodges fill up.
Permits and rules
Upper Mustang is a restricted area beyond Kagbeni. You need an Upper Mustang Restricted Area Permit, costing US$500 per person for the first 10 days and US$50 per extra day, plus the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit. Permits must be arranged through a registered agency, for groups of at least two trekkers, with a licensed guide. Our permits guide explains more.
How difficult is the Upper Mustang trek?
The trek is moderate. Altitudes are between 2,800 m and 4,300 m, lower than many classic treks, but the terrain is exposed and dry, with steep climbs over passes and long walks across open plateaus. The main challenges are the wind, which blows strongly up the Kali Gandaki valley every afternoon, dust and sun. Walking in the morning and reaching lodges by early afternoon avoids the worst of the wind.
Best time to visit
- April–May: pleasant temperatures and the Tiji festival.
- June–September: the rain shadow keeps Mustang mostly dry, making it one of the best monsoon treks in Nepal. More on this in our monsoon trekking guide.
- October–November: clear skies and harvest season; colder at night.
- December–March: very cold, and many residents move south for the winter; lodges and monasteries may be closed.
Trek or jeep?
A road now reaches Lo Manthang from Jomsom, and some visitors travel by jeep. The jeep tour takes about two days each way and suits travellers with limited time or fitness. The trek is slower and more immersive, using trails away from the road where possible, through villages and over passes the jeeps do not reach. Many itineraries combine both: trekking one way and driving the other.
A journey through Upper Mustang, day by day
It starts with the flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, 20 minutes between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna into the deep Kali Gandaki gorge. From Jomsom, a gentle walk along the wide, stony riverbed brings you to Kagbeni, an ancient village of mud-brick houses, narrow alleys and a red monastery, at the gateway to Upper Mustang. At the checkpoint, your guide shows your permits, and you step into the restricted area.
The first day inside follows the Kali Gandaki north, with caves visible high in the cliffs across the river, to Chele, where the landscape suddenly changes from the valley floor to high, dry plateaus. From Chele, the trail climbs steeply to a series of ridges and passes, with views back to Nilgiri and Annapurna, and descends to Samar and Syangboche. Everywhere the earth is coloured red, ochre, grey and purple, and the only green comes from irrigated barley fields and poplar trees around the villages.
From Syangboche, you cross the Nyi La pass and descend to Ghami, one of the largest villages in Mustang, with whitewashed houses and fields spread across a wide valley. Beyond Ghami, you pass the famous long mani wall and the red cliffs of Drakmar on the horizon before reaching Tsarang, with its huge five-storey dzong (fortress) and a monastery that holds precious Buddhist texts and paintings.
The final day to Lo Manthang is short but thrilling. You climb to a pass from which the walled city appears for the first time, a rectangle of earthen walls and white buildings on a plain surrounded by brown hills and distant snow peaks. Walking through the city gate into the narrow streets, where children play, women spin wool and monks walk to prayers, feels like stepping into another century.
The return route usually follows the eastern side of the valley, via Ghar Gompa and Drakmar, with its red cliffs, before rejoining the main trail near Ghami. You descend to Chhuksang or Kagbeni and return by jeep or on foot to Jomsom for the flight back to Pokhara.
Life in Upper Mustang
The people of Upper Mustang, known as Lobas, are of Tibetan origin and speak a Tibetan dialect. Their lives revolve around agriculture, livestock and trade. In summer, villages are busy with farming: barley, buckwheat and mustard grow in irrigated fields, and apple orchards have spread in recent decades. Many families keep yaks, goats, sheep and horses. In winter, when temperatures drop far below freezing and water freezes, many people move south to Pokhara, Kathmandu or India, leaving villages half-empty. Tibetan Buddhism is central to daily life, with monasteries, chortens, prayer flags and mani walls in every village, and monks from local families.
Horses are important in Mustang, and you may see riders galloping across the plateaus or races during festivals. Traditional architecture uses mud bricks and flat roofs piled with firewood, a sign of wealth in a treeless land. Stay in family-run lodges and you'll see how people live up here.
Monasteries and art of Lo
Mustang's monasteries are among the treasures of the Himalaya. Thubchen Gompa in Lo Manthang, built in the 15th century, has a vast assembly hall with towering wooden pillars and walls covered in paintings. Jampa Lhakhang, also known as the "God House", holds a huge statue of the Maitreya Buddha, and its walls are covered in mandala murals. Both underwent a long restoration project led by conservators working with local craftsmen, many of whom learned traditional techniques during the work. Tsarang Gompa and Ghar Gompa are also important sites. Photography inside monasteries may be restricted or require a fee; always ask first.
Wind, sun and dust: practical tips
Upper Mustang's climate is harsh. The sun is intense at altitude, and there is little shade. Every afternoon, strong winds blow up the Kali Gandaki valley, carrying dust and grit. Our tips:
- Start walking early and aim to reach your lodge by early afternoon, before the wind picks up.
- Wear a buff or scarf over your mouth and nose, and good sunglasses to protect your eyes from dust.
- Use high-factor sunscreen and lip balm, and reapply often.
- Carry enough water, as villages can be several hours apart.
- Protect cameras and electronics in sealed bags.
- Bring moisturiser; the dry air cracks skin quickly.
Lodges and food in Mustang
Teahouse lodges operate throughout Upper Mustang, and standards have improved greatly in recent years. Many lodges in Lo Manthang, Ghami and Tsarang have comfortable rooms, some with attached bathrooms and solar hot water. Food includes dal bhat, Tibetan bread, noodle soups, momos and, in season, apples and apple products. Thakali cooking from the lower Kali Gandaki is excellent. In winter, many lodges close. Carry some snacks, and bring cash, as there are no ATMs beyond Jomsom.
Beyond the classic route
For those with more time, Upper Mustang offers many variations. The eastern route via Tetang and Tangge is wilder and more remote, often requiring camping. From Lo Manthang, day trips lead to the Korala border area near Tibet, the cave monastery of Konchok Ling and the villages of Chhoser and Nyiphu. Experienced trekkers can cross from Upper Mustang to the Damodar Kunda lakes or to Phu in the Nar Phu valley on camping expeditions. Ask us about custom routes.
Who is the Upper Mustang trek for?
Upper Mustang suits trekkers who are fascinated by culture, history and unusual landscapes, and those who want a trek during the monsoon. It is also good for trekkers who want a moderate trek without extreme altitude, though the permit makes it expensive. Photographers love its colours and light. It is less suitable for those who want close views of giant snow peaks every day, although Nilgiri, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri are visible at the start and end, and the Tibetan border peaks from the higher passes.
Cost of the Upper Mustang trek
| Item | Approximate cost (US$) |
|---|---|
| Restricted area permit (10 days) | 500 |
| ACAP | About 23 |
| Flights Pokhara–Jomsom return | 240–280 |
| Guide and porter (per day) | 55–70 |
| Lodges and meals (per day) | 30–45 |
| Full guided package | 2,000–2,800 per person |
Preparing for the Upper Mustang trek
Although the altitude is moderate, Upper Mustang is physically demanding because of long days in exposed terrain, climbs over several passes each day and the constant wind. Prepare with two to three months of hill walking, ideally on consecutive days with a daypack, and cardio training. Practise walking in windy, dusty conditions if you can, and test your sun protection. Because Mustang is dry, you will lose water quickly through breathing and sweating, so train yourself to drink regularly. Arrive in Kathmandu with enough time for permit processing, which requires your passport and visa and can take a working day or two.
Packing for Upper Mustang
Pack for sun, wind and cold. Essentials include a wide-brimmed sun hat, sunglasses with side protection, high-factor sunscreen, lip balm, a buff for dust, a windproof jacket, warm layers and a down jacket for evenings, which can be cold even in summer. A sleeping bag rated to about −10°C is sensible in spring and autumn. Comfortable trekking boots, trekking poles and a hydration system or two large water bottles are important, as are wet wipes and moisturiser. In the monsoon months, a light rain jacket is still worth carrying for the lower Kali Gandaki. See our packing list for details.
Responsible travel in the Forbidden Kingdom
The high permit fee is intended partly to protect Mustang's culture and environment, and a share of it is supposed to support the region. As a visitor, you can help by staying in locally owned lodges, hiring local guides and porters where possible, and buying local products such as handwoven textiles, apples and Mustang salt. Respect monasteries and religious sites: remove shoes where asked, walk clockwise around chortens and mani walls, and do not touch statues or paintings. Water and firewood are scarce, so keep showers short and avoid wasting resources. Take all non-biodegradable waste back to Jomsom or Pokhara.
Upper Mustang and climate change
Mustang is one of the regions of Nepal most visibly affected by climate change. Changing snowfall and more intense rain in some years have caused floods and landslides, and some villages, such as Samdzong and parts of Dheye, have faced water shortages serious enough that residents considered relocating. Irrigation channels fed by snowmelt are the lifeblood of Mustang's farming, and shifts in snowfall affect harvests. Local communities are adapting with new water systems and crops, and tourism income is increasingly important. Visiting responsibly supports these efforts.
Common questions from our trekkers
Is the US$500 permit worth it? Most trekkers who visit say yes. The fee keeps numbers low, which is a big part of why Mustang still feels untouched, and nothing prepares you for walking through the gate into Lo Manthang. Can I extend my permit? Yes, at US$50 per extra day, arranged through your agency, ideally in advance. Is there mobile signal? Coverage has improved and is available in Lo Manthang and several villages, but it can be patchy between them. Is Mustang suitable for older trekkers? Yes, especially with the jeep option or a combination of trekking and driving, as altitudes are moderate. What if flights to Jomsom are cancelled? Jomsom flights only operate in the early morning and are sometimes cancelled because of wind or cloud; the alternative is a long but scenic jeep ride along the Kali Gandaki road from Pokhara.
Combining Upper Mustang with other experiences
Upper Mustang combines well with other highlights of western Nepal. Before or after your trek, visit the sacred temple of Muktinath, just a short drive from Kagbeni, where Hindus and Buddhists worship at 108 water spouts and an eternal flame. Explore the apple orchards and whitewashed lanes of Marpha. Spend a few days relaxing in Pokhara by Phewa Lake. For a longer trip, combine Mustang with the Annapurna Circuit, crossing the Thorong La from Manang to Muktinath and then heading north to Lo Manthang. Have a look at our Muktinath tour and our Pokhara travel guide.
What makes Mustang different from other treks
Most Nepal treks are defined by their mountains: Everest, Annapurna, Manaslu. Upper Mustang is defined by its land and people. Instead of dense forest and snowfields, you walk through a sculpted desert of cliffs, canyons and eroded pinnacles in every shade of red, gold and grey. Instead of lodges crowded with trekkers, you find quiet villages where life follows the rhythm of the seasons, the fields and the monastery calendar. Instead of a summit or base camp, the goal is a walled city that has stood for six centuries. It's a trek for curious people. Guests who arrive expecting "just another trek" often tell us it was their favourite.
Booking your Upper Mustang trek
Because the permit is issued in Kathmandu for specific dates and requires at least two trekkers, book your trek several weeks in advance, and two to three months ahead if you want to attend the Tiji festival in May, when lodges in Lo Manthang fill up quickly. Your trekking company will need a copy of your passport and visa, and will arrange the permit, ACAP, flights to Jomsom and lodges. Allow a spare day at the end of your itinerary in case Jomsom flights are delayed by wind.
Is Upper Mustang worth the permit fee?
There's no other trek in Nepal quite like Upper Mustang. Its landscapes are otherworldly, its culture is deep and living, and its walled capital is unlike anywhere else in the Himalaya. The permit is expensive, but it helps protect a fragile region and keeps visitor numbers low. If you are looking for a trek that feels like travelling back in time, this is it.