Just north of the busy Annapurna Circuit, hidden behind narrow canyons, are two stone villages most trekkers walk straight past. Nar and Phu are ancient settlements of stone houses, chortens and monasteries, where people of Tibetan origin live by herding yaks and farming barley much as their ancestors did centuries ago. Opened to trekkers only in 2003 and still a restricted area, the Nar Phu Valley gets a tiny fraction of the circuit's visitors, yet the canyons are deeper, the villages older and the culture far less changed.
The trek enters the valley from Koto on the Annapurna Circuit, explores Phu and Nar, and crosses the high Kang La (5,320 m) back to the Manang valley, where you can join the circuit over the Thorong La. Below: the route, what you'll see, permits and how to plan the trek.
Quick answer: the Nar Phu Valley trek takes about 12–14 days from Kathmandu, visiting the villages of Phu (4,080 m) and Nar (4,110 m) and crossing the Kang La (5,320 m) to Ngawal and Manang. It requires a Nar Phu restricted area permit, ACAP, a licensed guide and at least two trekkers. It is graded challenging and best from March–May and September–November; it is also possible in the monsoon thanks to the rain shadow.
Nar Phu at a glance
| Fact | Details |
|---|---|
| Duration | 12–14 days from Kathmandu |
| Highest point | Kang La, 5,320 m |
| Main villages | Phu (4,080 m), Nar (4,110 m) |
| Grade | Challenging |
| Start | Koto (by jeep from Kathmandu via Besisahar) |
| Finish | Manang (or continue over Thorong La) |
| Permits | Nar Phu RAP and ACAP |
| Rules | Minimum 2 trekkers, licensed guide |
| Best time | March–May, September–November; possible in monsoon |
Recommended itinerary
| Day | Route | Altitude |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Arrive Kathmandu; permits | 1,400 m |
| 2 | Drive to Koto via Besisahar and Chame | 2,600 m |
| 3 | Trek to Meta | 3,560 m |
| 4 | Trek to Kyang | 3,820 m |
| 5 | Trek to Phu | 4,080 m |
| 6 | Explore Phu and Tashi Lhakhang | 4,080 m |
| 7 | Trek to Nar Phedi | 3,490 m |
| 8 | Trek to Nar | 4,110 m |
| 9 | Acclimatisation in Nar | 4,110 m |
| 10 | Cross Kang La (5,320 m) to Ngawal | 3,660 m |
| 11 | Trek to Manang | 3,540 m |
| 12 | Drive to Besisahar and Kathmandu | 1,400 m |
See our Nar Phu Valley Trek. Many trekkers continue from Manang over the Thorong La on the Annapurna Circuit.
Highlights
The hidden canyons
You enter the valley through a narrow gorge. From Koto, the trail follows the Nar Khola into a narrow gorge, climbing past waterfalls and through pine forest, then into deep canyons with towering rock walls, overhanging cliffs and eroded pinnacles. At Kyang and beyond, you pass ruined settlements and ancient caves.
Phu village
Phu sits on a rocky outcrop above the river, reached through a traditional gateway (kani). Its stone houses are stacked on the hillside, and prayer flags flutter everywhere. Above the village, Tashi Lhakhang Gompa, one of the most important monasteries in the region, houses ancient texts and images. The lama here is associated with the revival of Buddhism in the valley.
Nar village
Nar, larger and more open than Phu, has four colourful chortens at its entrance, a monastery and fields of barley and buckwheat. From Nar, you can see the peaks of Pisang and Kang Guru, and the village feels remote and timeless.
The Kang La
The crossing of the Kang La (5,320 m) is the physical highlight. A steep climb from Nar leads to the pass, from which the view of Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Annapurna IV, Gangapurna and Tilicho Peak is one of the finest in the Annapurna region. A long, steep descent brings you to the village of Ngawal on the upper Annapurna Circuit.
Permits
Nar Phu is a restricted area. You need a Nar Phu restricted area permit, charged per week with higher rates in autumn, and the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit. At least two trekkers and a licensed guide are required, and permits are arranged through a registered agency. Our permits guide goes into more detail.
The journey, day by day
The trek begins with a long but scenic drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar and up the Marsyangdi valley road to Koto, just below Chame on the Annapurna Circuit. At the police checkpoint in Koto, your permits are checked, and you leave the circuit behind, crossing the river and entering the narrow Nar Khola gorge. The first day's walk to Meta climbs through pine and rhododendron forest, past waterfalls and hot springs, gaining over 900 m to a high plateau with views of Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal.
From Meta, the trail passes the seasonal settlements of Jhunam and Chyakhu, used by herders in winter, with rows of chortens and ancient ruins. The landscape grows wilder, with sculpted cliffs and hoodoos. At Kyang, the ruins of an old fort and village sit on a plateau, and the next day brings you through a narrow canyon and a gateway into Phu, a village that feels as though it has not changed for centuries. A rest day in Phu allows time to visit Tashi Lhakhang Gompa, wander the village's narrow lanes and perhaps hike towards Himlung Himal base camp for views.
Returning down the valley, you cross to Nar Phedi, where a monastery guesthouse offers simple accommodation, and climb to Nar. Another day in Nar allows further acclimatisation and exploration, before the big day over the Kang La. Starting before dawn, you climb steeply up the valley behind Nar to the pass, with the Annapurna range suddenly appearing ahead at the top. The descent to Ngawal is long and steep, but the reward is a warm lodge in one of the most beautiful villages on the Annapurna Circuit, followed by an easy walk to Manang.
Life in Nar and Phu
The people of Nar and Phu are of Tibetan origin, speak their own dialect and follow Tibetan Buddhism. Their livelihoods depend on yak herding, sheep and goats, and growing barley, buckwheat and potatoes in the short summer. Traditionally, many families also traded salt and grain between Tibet and the lower valleys. In winter, many residents move to lower settlements or towns such as Kathmandu and Pokhara, leaving the villages almost empty. Festivals and rituals, including the annual Lhosar and yak-racing events, bring the community together. In these villages you see a traditional Himalayan way of life that is slowly changing as roads and phones arrive.
Lodges, homestays and food
Accommodation in the Nar Phu valley is simple. Phu and Nar have small lodges and homestays with basic rooms, shared toilets and limited hot water, and the monastery at Nar Phedi has a guesthouse. Meals are simple: dal bhat, noodle soup, potatoes, Tibetan bread, tsampa and eggs, with tea. Menus are short, so bring snacks and energy food from Kathmandu or Pokhara. In peak season, rooms are limited, so your guide will arrange bookings in advance. Bring cash; there are no ATMs in the valley.
Combining Nar Phu with other treks
Nar Phu combines beautifully with the Annapurna Circuit. After crossing the Kang La to Ngawal and Manang, you can continue to Yak Kharka, Thorong Phedi and over the Thorong La (5,416 m) to Muktinath and Jomsom, adding about five days. You can also add a side trip to Tilicho Lake from Manang. This combination creates a three-week adventure through some of the most varied landscapes in the Himalaya. You'll find the route in detail on our Annapurna Circuit with Tilicho Lake page.
Best time and weather
The best seasons are March–May and September–November. Because Nar Phu lies behind the Annapurna range in a rain shadow, it receives much less rain than the south side of the mountains, and treks are also possible during the monsoon (June–August), although the drive to Koto and the lower gorge can be affected by landslides. In winter, snow often closes the Kang La, and many residents leave the villages, so trekking is not recommended from December to February. Nights in Phu and Nar are cold in every season.
Packing for Nar Phu
Pack for cold, dry high-altitude conditions: a sleeping bag rated to −15°C, a warm down jacket, thermal layers, a windproof shell, warm gloves and hat, sunglasses, high-factor sunscreen, microspikes for the Kang La, gaiters, trekking poles, a head torch, water purification and a well-stocked first-aid kit. The air is very dry, so bring lip balm and moisturiser. More on this in our packing list.
Acclimatisation and safety
With several nights above 4,000 m and a pass above 5,300 m, acclimatisation is crucial. The itinerary includes rest days in Phu and Nar, which also allow time to explore. Walk slowly, drink three to four litres of water a day and report symptoms of altitude sickness to your guide. The Kang La should only be crossed in good weather; if snow is deep or visibility poor, your guide may decide to wait or return via Koto. The remoteness of the valley means that serious emergencies require helicopter evacuation, so insurance covering trekking to 5,500 m is essential. See our altitude guide.
Responsible trekking
The Nar Phu valley has seen tourism only since 2003, and its culture and environment are fragile. Dress modestly, ask permission before photographing people and monasteries, walk clockwise around chortens and mani walls, and never remove stones or objects from religious sites. Carry out plastic and batteries, avoid single-use water bottles and support local lodges and homestays. The restricted-area permit fees help fund local development, and your respectful presence helps sustain the communities.
Difficulty
The Nar Phu trek is challenging. Several nights are spent above 4,000 m, the villages are remote, lodges are basic, and the Kang La crossing is a long, high day of 8–10 hours, sometimes in snow. Previous experience at altitude is recommended. Good acclimatisation days in Phu and Nar make the pass more manageable.
The canyons and landscapes
The Nar Phu landscape is all cliffs, canyons and high desert. Above Meta, the trail enters a world of deep, narrow canyons carved by the Nar and Phu rivers, with sheer walls of rock and conglomerate rising hundreds of metres. Erosion has sculpted the cliffs into pillars, towers and overhangs, and in places the trail passes through natural rock arches or along ledges above the river. Ancient caves, once used by hermits and herders, dot the cliffs. As you climb higher, the valley opens into wide, high plateaus with yak pastures, surrounded by peaks such as Himlung Himal, Kang Guru and Pisang Peak. The combination of canyon scenery and high mountain views makes the trek a photographer's dream.
Tashi Lhakhang and the religious life of Phu
Tashi Lhakhang Gompa, above Phu village, is one of the most important monasteries in the region. It is associated with the Karma Kagyu tradition and houses precious texts, statues and paintings. The monastery was revitalised in recent decades under the guidance of a respected lama, and it remains the spiritual centre of the valley. Visiting the monastery, especially during morning or evening prayers, is a highlight of the trek. Remove your shoes, walk clockwise, and ask before taking photos. The villagers of Phu also maintain several chortens and prayer walls, and the entrance gate (kani) to the village is decorated with Buddhist paintings to protect those who pass through.
Guides, porters and group rules
Nar Phu is a restricted area, so trekkers must be accompanied by a licensed guide and travel in groups of at least two. A guide familiar with the valley is essential for route-finding, especially in the canyons and on the Kang La, and for arranging accommodation in the small villages. Porters carry your main luggage; on this remote route, make sure your company provides them with warm clothing and proper footwear for the high pass. Solo travellers can join group departures; ask us about available dates.
Training and preparation
Because of its altitude and the demanding Kang La crossing, the Nar Phu trek requires good fitness. Train for at least 12 weeks with long hikes carrying a pack, steep uphill and downhill walking, stair climbing and cardio. Experience at altitude, such as a previous trek to Everest Base Camp or Annapurna Base Camp, is highly recommended. Our training guide goes into more detail.
Connectivity and practicalities
Mobile signal is limited in the valley, especially in the canyons and around Phu. Some lodges have satellite Wi-Fi, but do not rely on it. Charging is limited to solar power in places. There are no ATMs, so bring enough cash for the trek. Water can be purified at lodges; carry tablets or a filter.
Common questions
Can I do Nar Phu without crossing the Kang La? Yes, by returning to Koto the way you came, which avoids the high pass. Is Nar Phu harder than the Annapurna Circuit? It is more remote with simpler lodges; the Kang La is slightly lower than the Thorong La but steeper. How many trekkers visit? Only a small fraction of the Annapurna Circuit's numbers. Can I combine Nar Phu with Tilicho Lake? Yes, from Manang after crossing the Kang La.
Photography tips
Photographers will love it: canyon walls, old villages, painted chortens and the view from the Kang La. Carry spare batteries, as charging is limited, and ask permission before photographing people or monastery interiors.
Crossing the Kang La: what to expect
The day over the Kang La is the most demanding of the trek. You leave Nar around 4 or 5 a.m., climbing by head torch up a broad valley past yak pastures and old herders' shelters. The trail gradually steepens, zigzagging up scree and moraine, and in spring or late autumn, snow may cover the upper slopes. Your guide sets a slow, steady pace, with frequent short breaks. After four to five hours, you reach the pass, marked with prayer flags, and the view opens dramatically to the south: the full Annapurna range, from Annapurna II to Gangapurna and Tilicho Peak, with the Manang valley far below. The descent is steep and long, over loose scree and switchbacks, dropping more than 1,600 m to Ngawal. Microspikes and trekking poles are invaluable. It's a long day of eight to ten hours, and the view from the top is worth every step.
Wildlife in the valley
The Nar Phu valley lies within the Annapurna Conservation Area and is home to wildlife adapted to high, dry landscapes. Blue sheep (bharal) are commonly seen grazing on the cliffs, and Himalayan tahr live in steeper terrain. The elusive snow leopard hunts in the area, and trekkers occasionally see its tracks. Birds include Himalayan griffon vultures, lammergeiers, golden eagles, snowcocks and choughs. Keep your distance from wildlife and never feed animals.
Costs
A guided Nar Phu trek typically costs around US$1,400–2,000 per person, including permits, jeep transport to Koto and from Manang, guide, porter, lodges and meals. Combining it with the Annapurna Circuit adds cost for the extra days. Take a look at our guide to the cost of trekking in Nepal.
Why choose Nar Phu?
Nar Phu has what many trekkers look for and rarely find: wild landscapes, traditional villages and quiet trails, right next to the Annapurna Circuit. Between the canyons, the old villages, Tashi Lhakhang monastery and the Kang La, it's one of our favourite treks for people with the experience and fitness to enjoy it. It is also an excellent choice in the monsoon, when much of Nepal is wet.
What trekkers say about Nar Phu
Trekkers who have walked the Nar Phu valley often say it felt like stepping into another century. Many remember entering Phu through its painted gateway and finding women weaving and children herding yaks among stone houses, or sitting in Tashi Lhakhang as monks chanted. Others describe the Kang La view as the finest of their trekking lives, with the whole Annapurna range spread before them. Almost everyone mentions the silence and the feeling of having the valley to themselves, a rare experience so close to one of Nepal's most popular trails.
Booking tips
Book at least a month in advance, and longer for autumn departures, to allow for restricted-area permit processing. Permits require passport and visa copies and a minimum of two trekkers. Arrive in Kathmandu at least a day before the trek starts. If you plan to continue over the Thorong La, tell us when booking so we can plan the full itinerary, permits and transport. Keep a spare day at the end for road delays on the Marsyangdi valley road, which can be affected by landslides.
Nar Phu compared with Upper Mustang
Nar Phu and Upper Mustang are both restricted areas with Tibetan culture and rain-shadow landscapes. Upper Mustang is larger and more famous, with the walled city of Lo Manthang and a higher permit fee. Nar Phu is smaller, wilder and higher, with deep canyons, fewer facilities and the Kang La crossing. Nar Phu combines easily with the Annapurna Circuit, while Mustang combines with Muktinath and Jomsom. Both are good choices for experienced trekkers who want culture and quiet, and both are possible in the monsoon. See our Upper Mustang guide.
Insurance
Your travel insurance must cover trekking to at least 5,500 m and emergency helicopter evacuation, as the valley is remote and the pass is high. We cover this in our insurance guide.
Food and supplies
Lodges in the valley serve simple meals such as dal bhat, noodle soup, potatoes and Tibetan bread. Menus are short and prices higher than on the main circuit, because supplies are carried in. Bring energy bars, nuts and dried fruit from Kathmandu or Pokhara for pass day and long walks between villages.
A short history of Nar and Phu
The villages of Nar and Phu were settled centuries ago by people from Tibet, and for generations they were connected more closely to Tibetan trade routes than to the rest of Nepal. The valley remained closed to foreigners until 2003, and the influx of trekkers since then has brought gradual change, including new lodges and solar power, while the core traditions of herding, farming and Buddhist practice endure.
One thing our guides always check before the Kang La: the weather forecast and the snow conditions on the pass. If fresh snow has fallen, it is often better to wait a day in Nar than to push on. The villages are good places to rest, and an extra night there is never wasted.
Should you add Nar Phu to your trip?
Nar Phu is the Annapurna region's quiet corner: hidden canyons, old stone villages, living Tibetan culture and a high pass, with very few other trekkers. It suits experienced trekkers, and it slots neatly into the Annapurna Circuit. Contact us to plan your Nar Phu trek.